Onyx
Onyx: the mysterious and versatile gemstone of contrasts
Onyx is a variety of the mineral chalcedony. Chalcedony is a mineral that occurs in many color variations and is found in banded layers, with onyx consisting of dark brown, brown, and white layers. Because of the color layers in onyx, this gemstone can be used in many creative ways. Although many people know onyx as a black material, it does not occur naturally in black. However, the technique for coloring onyx a deep black is centuries old. It has long been used in onyx jewelry.
Cameos and Intaglio
Onyx is often used for carving cameos and intaglios. A cameo is a gemstone whose background is cut away, creating a design from the higher part. An intaglio, on the other hand, is a gemstone into which a design is carved, revealing it in the lower layers of the stone. Both carving techniques are most beautiful when using a stone with multiple layers of color, as this allows the details of the design to stand out. This has made onyx the most popular material for carving cameos and intaglios for centuries.
On trend by accident
Onyx is found in many places in the earth and is therefore a widely used mineral. The stone was used extensively, especially in the 19th century, when mourning jewelry became incredibly popular. Even before the 19th century, it was quite common to wear jewelry in memory of deceased loved ones, but Queen Victoria of England (r. 1837-1901) was a trendsetter in many areas, especially in clothing and jewelry. When her beloved husband Prince Albert died unexpectedly in 1861, Victoria threw herself into full mourning; from then until the day of her death, more than forty years later, she wore only black clothing and black jewelry. She unintentionally created a new trend, and for years it was fashionable to wear black or other dark clothing. Large, black jewelry was worn with this; necklaces with black beads, large oval medallions, cross pendants, and large earrings were common. Onyx was often used for this purpose, but jet, glass and black enamel were also popular.
Art Deco Period
Another era in which a striking number of onyx jewelry pieces were made was the Art Deco period. This style was inspired by modernism and cubism, and jewelry designers created pieces with sleek, geometric shapes in contrasting color combinations.
One reason for the preference for onyx in Art Deco jewelry was the rise of platinum. Platinum is a white metal that is more difficult to work than gold. When technical innovations in the 1920s made platinum easier to use, this innovation was immediately widely adopted. The white platinum and black onyx created a beautiful color contrast, making onyx a popular material in Art Deco jewelry.
Appearances can be deceiving
It's like the apparent azure blue of the sea: although many people know onyx as a deep black material, this variety doesn't occur naturally. The blackest natural onyx found in nature is actually a deep, dark brown. The black variety is created when brown onyx is treated with a sugar solution and then heated. The resulting variety, with a sharp color contrast between the white and black bands, is the most sought-after.
Maintenance
Onyx is a porous stone, so avoid soaking. Clean with a damp, soft cloth and dry immediately. Do not use soap or cleaning products.
Discover our unique collection of vintage onyx jewelry here.